Leaving Turkey

So it's my last night in Istanbul and Turkey.  The muezzin is calling and a cruise ship has just departed, making three loud calls as it went.  Istanbul has been exhausting - I thought it was jet lag when I was here before but now I think it is just the city.  There are so many people, both tourists and locals, and the pace of the city is fast.  If you are strolling along a footpath, three Turkish men with cellphones clamped to their ears will be rushing past, and the only safe way to cross a road I have discovered is to wait until a local is crossing and go with them.

There's a heavy police presence in the evenings with armoured vehicles and the police carry automatic rifles.  Last time I was here, we left on the day of Kurdish riots, and there were smashed up bus stops from a previous day's riot as well.

There are moments of calm in the madness: stops for chai and Turkish coffee; a rest on a seat in the Hippodrome; leaning on the Galata bridge watching the boats on the Bosphorus.  Shopping is actually quite a slow process too.  Buying a long sleeved walking shirt, I was offered a cup of tea to drink while some different sizes were found.  I can't imagine that in NZ.  Even buying a cheap ring for my daughter involved a conversation and some gentle haggling.

Food continues to be a highlight.  The buttons on my trousers are still tight because breakfast at my hotel is a feast every morning with yoghurt, tomato, cucumber, cheese, several types of bread, pancakes, omelette, fruit... Then there's baklava and meze for snacks through the day, until it is time for dinner. I have just had my best meal in Istanbul at the Anatolia Cafe after finding it on Trip Advisor: (http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g293974-d2105735-Reviews-Istanbul_anatolia_cafe_and_restaurant-Istanbul.html)  It was truly as good as they say!  I met two friendly women from Chicago there as well so the company was good also.

In between eating I went to museums, got lost, cruised the Bosphorus, and at last packed my bag ready to leave tomorrow.   Turkey has been much better than I expected and I can already see the beginnings of a return itinerary.