Mirthios and Plakias have changed over the last thirty years, as you would expect, and mostly the changes are good. People seem better off than when I was here before, though whether that applies right now with the government's austerity measures, I don't know. The new houses and hotels aren't hideous, except the awful Hapimag complex at the once beautiful beach of Damnoni. The rest of the beaches all seem as magnificent as they always were, and not yet full of beach umbrellas for the summer. Here's my favourite, Souda:
There were no buildings at all when I was last here, and now there are plenty, but they have stayed back from the beach.
I went walking on another series of beaches yesterday - four that are connected by tracks - and as I walked over a particularly spiky and rather arduous section of path between the first and second beaches, I was full of admiration for young Karen who bounded over these tracks. Once I got to the next one though I realised that of course I had never actually been as far along as the first beach - I just went to any one of the other three, which had a much easier path.
My memory has been selective on other walking tracks too - I know I went up the local high point Timeo Stavros, so thought I should do it again for old times sake and the best view of the region. I cursed as I slogged up, having no recall of how steep a climb it was. The view was still spectacular though, even though I didn't quite make it to the top this time (making use of the Solomon Islands' belief of the sacredness of mountain tops comes in handy when you get tired).
The other memory blank I have is of the steep climb from Plakias by the sea back up to Mirthios. I used to go up and down here all the time - how could I forget it was so steep! Not helped I think by being concreted now, while before at least there were a few bends on the path through the olive trees and a lot more shade.
Some things I do still remember - the old youth hostel building is still there though no longer used as such. It was my home for two winters, and freezing cold it was too when it snowed. It's the upper storey in the photo - downstairs was the taverna where I had to drink lots of brandy to stay warm. The three doors on the far left are the outside loos and the cold water shower.
This time I am in my comfy studio, with ensuite, and wifi access and enjoying much better food. I'm sad I can't bring back Plakias honey and Sellia yoghurt, so I am trying to eat as much as possible now.
I don't recognise anyone from the old days and I'm not going looking! I went to the cemetery and only found a couple of names I knew. I'm enjoying creating new memories, but I can appreciate why this place has been in my memory for so long.
There were no buildings at all when I was last here, and now there are plenty, but they have stayed back from the beach.
I went walking on another series of beaches yesterday - four that are connected by tracks - and as I walked over a particularly spiky and rather arduous section of path between the first and second beaches, I was full of admiration for young Karen who bounded over these tracks. Once I got to the next one though I realised that of course I had never actually been as far along as the first beach - I just went to any one of the other three, which had a much easier path.
My memory has been selective on other walking tracks too - I know I went up the local high point Timeo Stavros, so thought I should do it again for old times sake and the best view of the region. I cursed as I slogged up, having no recall of how steep a climb it was. The view was still spectacular though, even though I didn't quite make it to the top this time (making use of the Solomon Islands' belief of the sacredness of mountain tops comes in handy when you get tired).
The other memory blank I have is of the steep climb from Plakias by the sea back up to Mirthios. I used to go up and down here all the time - how could I forget it was so steep! Not helped I think by being concreted now, while before at least there were a few bends on the path through the olive trees and a lot more shade.
Some things I do still remember - the old youth hostel building is still there though no longer used as such. It was my home for two winters, and freezing cold it was too when it snowed. It's the upper storey in the photo - downstairs was the taverna where I had to drink lots of brandy to stay warm. The three doors on the far left are the outside loos and the cold water shower.
This time I am in my comfy studio, with ensuite, and wifi access and enjoying much better food. I'm sad I can't bring back Plakias honey and Sellia yoghurt, so I am trying to eat as much as possible now.
I don't recognise anyone from the old days and I'm not going looking! I went to the cemetery and only found a couple of names I knew. I'm enjoying creating new memories, but I can appreciate why this place has been in my memory for so long.
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